1980's Concord Mariner SG
1980's Concord Mariner SG
- Brand and Country of Manufacture - Switzerland
- Year - 1980s
- Serial - 542802
- Model - 15 81 613
- Movement & caliber - ETA 255.111
- Case diameter - 30mm
A stainless steel and 18ct yellow gold Concord Mariner SG on an integrated bracelet. Is it an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 6005? Is it s Rolex King Midas 4316?! Nope! It is. Concord Mariner. A very handsome an interesting design take on seemingly a mix of these two watch giants. At the time both of these two inspirational pieces were some of the most expensive watches in the world. It is no surprise therefore that the designers at Concord decided to use them as inspiration for these handsome looking execution.
A tank vase with a tapered integrated bracelet, that from the inside has also taken construction cues from the Piaget Polo. A really well made bracelet that is not overly heavy and wears really well on the wrist. It is easy to size, thanks to the screw back, slide in link structure. The bracelet is a good length and will currently fit even the largest of wrists.
Moving on to the dial, it is clear that this is taken straight from the Royal; Oak. The color and pattern stamped into the dial is like that of he vintage 'Petite Tapisserie' found on the first Royal Oak Jumbos, on mostly all Royal Oaks from the 80s and 90s and also on the first Royal Oak Offshore models bearing reference 25721. The squares are extremely small and the pattern is tight compared to the later executions. They are laborious to make with the brass dials being engraved by a burin, a precision metalwork chisel, that reproduces the motif on a disc attached to the machine, like a pantograph. A pointer rotates across the disc from the periphery to the center. The system is combined with a tool that forms the little lozenges between the pyramidal squares and takes between 20 and 50 minutes, depending on the dial's diameter. It's a delicate operation. A mere skip is all it takes to damage the piece as the slightest impact is as visible as dust on a mirror.
It is highly unlikely that this dial underwent this type of construction. It is most likely stamped into the brass plate and then painted. However, the overall appearance is the same. Also the same shape applied solid gold markers are applied. The overall affect is very good looking, as you would expect having taken license from the AP!
The watch is powered by an ETA quartz caliber movement. One also must remember that AP also had quartz versions of their watches at this time too.
Overall, this is a very handsome, and in this shape, a quite rare watch. It is being presented in excellent original condition, likely unpolished and with a perfect dial. Very much the AP or Midas to be worn every day.