1980's Cartier Cougar Watch
1980's Cartier Cougar Watch
- Brand and Country of Manufacture - Cartier, Switzerland
- Year - 1980's
- Serial - 000212
- Model - 116000R
- Movement & caliber - Quartz 687
- Case diameter - 34mm
A solid eighteen carat yellow gold Cartier Cougar wristwatch. A beautiful, striking and yet quite subtle model from the extensive Cartier watch line. This is perhaps one of the less seen of the range of wrist watch models from this storied French icon. The Cougar was launched in 1989, also being blessed with a feline associated name much like its cousin the Panthere. There is a constant cat theme within the Cartier lineage, and this model was introduced in order to continue and evolve and develop that.
In 1914, Louis Cartier commissioned French illustrator George Barbier to draw a “Lady with a Panther”, to be later used in advertising. From this moment, the black panther, leopards, chetahs and tigers featured across both watches and jewellery for the luxury atelier. This was further reinforced after the appointment of Jeanne Toussaint. After joining Cartier in 1918, she became known as “La Panthère” for her unique style and captivating personality. By 1933 Toussaint was announced by Louis Cartier as Artistic Director of High Jewellery. From this position "La Panthère" maintained the appearance of feline forms and details throughout the creations of the team of artisans and artists creating the sublime and sumptuous pieces.
This model was an of evolution of form from the launch of the iconic Panthère in 1984. Moving away from the cushion case to a more rounded design, this watch takes a number of design cues from its predecessor; the riveted style bezel, quite simple and clean design, a crown guard protecting the winding crown, and same bracelet design and closure. It is simply a cat, but of another breed. These models presented the opportunity to have a chic, classy and stylish watch which was also quite sporty. The cases are thinner in profile and without a mechanical movement, they are more durable. Many of these watches were seen on the golf courses, tennis courts and beaches of the world's most elegant places in the 1980's and '90s.
The dial on this example is the iconic Cartier design; egg shell dial, black Roman numerals, blue steeled hands and the discreet "hidden" signature at the seven o’clock position, with the "Cartier" signature and "Swiss" below the six o'clock marker. There is also the classic Cartier styling of the use of a cabochon sapphire set into the crown.
The fully signed and hallmarked watch case back is held in place by a number of small gold screws, beneath which is a Cartier quartz movement. The watch is likely unpolished over the years, and is presented in stunning condition throughout. The large, and unusual Cartier solid eighteen carat gold buckle is present, and it is fitted to a beautifully aged alligator Cartier watch band.
Both this and the Panthère were introduced at a great time in Cartier's history. The houses had once again been unified. The Cartier Museum was now up and running, as was the Cartier Foundation. The business had achieved over $1 billion in sales, and this model was produced hot off the heels of the acquisition of Baume & Mercier and Piaget. This is a rare chance to own an unusual piece of vintage Cartier history. This watch wears very comfortably and is suitable for any size wrist.